September 23, 2007

I left my heart in Hong Kong

I recently visited Hong Kong and had such a good time there that I did not feel like returning home. I could not bear to leave the sights, sounds and taste of Hong Kong.

I was very impressed by the changes that the former colony had undergone since I last visited it when I was a teenager. Upon arrival, the new airport was the first to greet me with its modern and spacious design. Just outside the airport was the MTR which took me to the station near my hotel in about half an hour. I was particularly fascinated by the lighted panel in the MTR which indicates the position of the train along its route. It gave me a good idea of where I was headed and how much longer to get there. What amazed me most was the improvement in the quality of service – I found that people are much more polite and helpful than in the past.

However, what is most unforgettable about Hong Kong is the food! I had the good fortune of trying out some of the popular local foods there.

Mak Ngan Kee is one of the well-known local eateries that serves Hong Kong-style wanton noodles. Even Anthony Bourdain visited it for the wanton noodles. The noodles were quite firm and springy, much more than those you would find in Singapore’s wanton mee, and the wantons were generously filled with crunchy shrimps. Both were served together in a delicious clear soup. But the reason why Mak Ngan Kee stands out from the rest is that its noodles lack the alkaline taste that is typical of Hong Kong noodles. Compared to other eateries serving similar wanton noodle, Mak Ngan Kee’s serving is smaller and the price is higher, yet its business is better than the others.

Yum Char is an integral part of Hong Kong lifestyle, and Maxim Restaurant at City Hall is one of the better known restaurants that serves a wide range of fine dim sums. The restaurant is huge – I think it can easily seat 500 people. What impressed me was the grand chandelier that makes the restaurant look like a palace. The siew mai, har kow, char siew bao, century egg porridge, yam dumpling, and fun cheong which I tried were great, and I would say that they were comparable to the dim sums served at Red Star Restaurant in Singapore. But I find that food in Hong Kong generally tend to be a little saltier than those in Singapore. As I was leaving the restaurant, I noticed that a long queue had formed and was waiting to be admitted into the restaurant, a scene not uncommon at Red Star, too.

Yung Kee Restaurant is reputed for its roast goose. When I visited the restaurant, I noticed that almost every table had an order of roast goose. The breast of goose that I had ordered was roasted to perfection with a dark, shiny, mahogany red skin. The meat was thick and tasty, but I find it a tad on the dry side.
What I liked most was the “bak chit” chicken with its supple and distinctly yellow skin, and succulent yet nicely chewy meat which was full of chicken flavor. The roast goose was a little of a disappointment but the chicken was a very memorable dish for me.

Who can visit Hong Kong without savoring its egg tart? Tai Cheong Bakery is well-known for its egg tarts which were a favorite of Chris Patten, the last governor of Hong Kong. Unfortunately, I was just too full to try it. My visit was too short - there were so many places to visit and so much food to try but I just did not have enough time. Anyway, this should give me a good reason to return to Hong Kong at the first possible chance.

I returned to Singapore reluctantly, leaving my heart, or rather my stomach, in Hong Kong.